Normally when I think of Tuscany, cities like Florence and Siena spring to mind. I also think of paintings of rolling hills with vineyards and Cyprus trees. I have never given too much thought towards the Tuscan coast until I started researching somewhere we could go for our honeymoon within driving distance of Bergamo and allowing for Covid restrictions. Honestly, if you had asked me to point out Elba Island on a map a few months ago, I don’t think I could have. As my parents said, we know it best as a crossword clue; “The island where Napoleon was exiled (4).” Thanks to recommendations from my Italian friends and colleagues, we set off on our mini road trip, first briefly exploring the mainland Tuscan coast and then taking the car ferry over to Isola d’Elba.
On the way there, we had to stop inland at San Gimignano, a fairytale Tuscan town that has captured our hearts. I have so much love for the place that it deserved a post of its own. Click here if you fancy reading that. We spent that first night in Volterra, another medieval town that was nice but didn’t quite have the same appeal to me.
For our day on the Tuscan mainland coast, we based ourselves in the San Vincenzo area. The first stop was the little village of Populonia. The upper part of this town is one street long and built inside the walls of the striking fortress, stoically standing guard atop the cliffs. There is a car park right beside the fortress. You can pay an entrance fee of €5 per person to go inside the fortress and climb up steps on the outer walls or go right to the top of the highest watchtower.
If you’re afraid of heights or get claustrophobic, it might be better to give the tower a miss. The last two flights of stairs are very steep and a through a small-ish space. For those not fazed by these things, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views over the little peninsula, out at the expanse of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Looking north, you’ll see the golden sands of the Baratti Gulf which was our next stop.
Passing through the Baratti area on the way to Populonia, we spotted lots of family-friendly holiday resorts, parking and beaches. The water here is crystal clear and the beaches seemed clean. I had read about pollution concerns for some towns a little further up the coast, near Livorno, so I was pleasantly surprised by this.
Though we stayed in San Vincenzo, we didn’t spend much time there. It seemed like a typical tourist, seaside town with lots and lots of accommodation, bars and restaurants along the long stretch of beaches. As we were on the west coast, we were treated to a beautiful sunset.
The next morning we headed to the port town of Piombino to catch the car ferry to Elba. We went with the Moby-Toremar company as our hotel (Hotel Airone) offered a 20% discount on the price. The hour-long crossing went by in a flash as I spent the entire time on the deck mesmerised by the seagulls gliding overhead, checking if we had any fish on board!
We were really lucky to have our wedding leave before Italian schools break up for the holidays. Between that and Covid restrictions, everything was quieter than expected. Arriving into Portoferraio on Elba Island an hour ahead of schedule, we decided to head straight for the beach. I had looked into it and seen that Spiaggia Biodola was the top recommendation for a white sandy beach. Elba had several different types of beaches from fine sand, to course sand to pebbly and rocky shores.
Spiaggia Biodola was perfect for us. You can use the spiaggia libera to put down your own beach things or pay for sunbeds and parasols at a manned part. We opted for the latter (€25 total for 2 sunbeds and a parasol for the day). There is a bar with toilets for anyone to use and free parking on the steep hill leading down to the beach. Just make sure you park in a spot inside a white line that doesn’t have a “No parking” sign. People who parked in the verge had fines at the end of the day. We really enjoyed lunch at La Taverna dei Pirati, trying the Tuscan schiaccina (a type of sandwich made with flat Tuscan focaccia and baked in the pizza oven).
In the evening we went close to Procchio to a little bar/restaurant called Dai Pelati. It’s a very casual place just across from another lovely stretch of beachfront in a little bay. It’s run by the sweetest staff who served us delicious seafood and pizza with a light, crispy base. As it was just the two of them running the show, service was at a leisurely pace. We were in no rush so this suited us fine. We were quite content, watching the sunset unfold before our eyes. We also had a little stroll in Procchio and had tasty handmade gelato at Il Gelato degli Artisti.
Then the weather forecast turned! Looking up what to do when it rains on Elba, the options were Napoleon museums, mineral and rock museums, an aquarium and my personal favourite thing to do in Italy… have a long lunch! We decided to go to Portoferraio and we’re lucky that the rain held off. We had plans to do lots of things before our lunch reservation but ended up spending all of our morning at Forte Falcone, a magnificent 16th century fort that dominates the skyline of Portoferraio. It is every bit worth the €5 entry fee, giving you unrivalled 360 degree views. As you walk around, it just seems to get bigger and bigger. Even on a dull day, these views were sensational. See below for yourself! (Have a look on my Instagram highlight “Tuscan Coast” to see a video of the 360 degree panorama)
For lunch, we decided to splash out and treat ourselves to the Michelin star Agriturismo Sapereta. If you’re interested in food, I’ve done a whole post dedicated to that meal. You can read it by clicking here. That evening, the sun made a brief appearance so we stopped by the supermarket and got some salads and fruit for a picnic on the rocky path between Spiaggia Scagliere and Spiaggia Biodola at sunset. I can’t think of a more romantic spot!
For our final day we had great intentions to chill at Fetovaia beach on the south of the island. Unfortunately, the windy weather made that “chill” all too real so we opted to head back to our good old favourite, Spiaggia Biodola which is on the north coast and much more sheltered. We decided to pay our favourite Pirati and Pelati lunch and dinner spots a visit too as we loved the staff, setting and food in both. We watched our last magical Tuscan sunset, already planning about when we can come back again.
I hope this has given you some insight into the Tuscan coast and some tips if you’re planning to travel there. Though there are some public transports options, they seem very limited and having a car is a must to properly enjoy these places. Make sure to get to the beaches early in high tourist season to be able to get parking. The Tuscan coast really has all the ingredients for a perfect beach holiday – white sands, crystal clear water, spectacular sunsets, magnificent ancient buildings and mouthwatering local food.
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